Copy of History of the Oregon State Capitol

History of the Oregon State Capitol

Between 1840 and 1850, 53,000 plus people traveled the Oregon Trail to settle out West. Many of these pioneers made it to the very end, which was Oregon City. "In 1843, an overland migration arrived over the Oregon Trail to settle in the Willamette Valley. The influx of settlers traveling the Oregon Trail increased and agitation for U.S. control of Oregon resulted in the 1846 settlement between the U.S. and Great Britain. This action established the 49^th parallel as the dividing line between British territory and the United States" (Oregon CityLink). In 1849, the Territory of Oregon was recognized and the capitol was Oregon City. The capitol building, then, was a two story building with a basement.

"In 1854-5, however, the legislative session was convened at Salem, in a partly finished building [still] under construction. The legislature voted to move to Corvallis for the next session, but no sooner took up quarters at that place than it voted to go back to Salem, which it did before the session was finished. The new quarters at Salem were in the same building that had been occupied before, but now the structure was completed" (Carey, 661-2).

A huge quarrel arose between politicians within the Oregon government when the capitol was moved to Salem. Some felt that the capitol should remain in Oregon City. But over time, it was established that Salem would be the new capitol. When Oregon gained statehood in 1859, Salem was permanently established as the capitol of Oregon.

Salem, which is located in the Willamette Valley, one of the most fertile and productive agricultural valleys in the world, was founded in 1834 by Methodist missionaries who came with the soul purpose to minister to the Native Americans. "Salem was originally referred to as Chemeketa, a Calapooya Indian name meaning ‘place of rest’. The missionaries, however, preferred the name ‘Salem’, an anglicized form of the Hebrew word shalom, meaning ‘peace’" (Oregon CityLink).

On December 30, 1855, the newly occupied Statehouse was completely destroyed by fire. To continue its sessions, the legislature rented building space. The rented building mainly used was the Holman Building located in the business section of Salem. The legislature rented this building from 1859 until 1876, when the second capitol building was finished being built.

"In December, 1872, the state legislature appropriated $100,000, and appointed a commission, consisting of Gen. John F. Miller, Henry Klippel and Samuel Allen, who selected the site, in block 84, facing Willson Park. Several eminent architects submitted plans, but Krumbein and Gilbert’s plan was accepted. The excavation was done by labor of inmates of the state penitentiary, and the corner-stone was laid with appropriate ceremonies, October 8, 1873, at which Gov. L.F. Grover presided. The building was 264 feet in length and 75 feet in width, with projection of wings, 100 feet. The dome was planned to reach a height of 180 feet, but was not finished until 1893" (Carey, 661-2).

The second capitol was patterned after the U.S. Capitol, cost $325,000 and was built on the same site as the previous capitol building. The capitol faced west towards the Willamette River and was built modeling Greek architecture. "It had hollow metal girders supporting a massive copper dome, mullion-windowed wings, and two-story porticoes faced with Corinthian columns" (Belton,15). Unfortunately, the whole structure was destroyed by fire on April 25, 1935. The origin of the fire was in the basement of the east wing.

"…when the ruins were being removed the corner-stone was opened July 31, 1935, and documents that had been deposited therein in 1873 were found in good state of preservation. November 9, 1935, the legislature, at a special session, decided to rebuild the capitol, on the same site, at a cost of $2,500,000" (Carey, 661-2).

For the next three years, the legislature met in rented buildings downtown and in other state buildings.

Before the legislature decided to rebuild the capitol, it was proposed to buy acreage on Salem’s Candalaria Heights and to build the new capitol there. That idea did not last long, and soon it was decided to build on the original spot of the previous capitol building. Some proposed to build the capitol around the old walls which were still standing, but others disagreed and said that the walls were not sufficiently strong. The walls were proven to be quite strong. So strong that, when wrecking the walls and foundation, rock was flung everywhere due to the large amount of dynamite necessary to remove them.

Construction began on Dec. 4, 1936, during the Great Depression, on Oregon’s third capitol building. The building cost $2.5 million (exclusive of the present-day wings) and was financed mostly by the U.S. government through the Works Progress Administration. Through this program, the materials used to build the capitol were required to be purchased from businesses in other states throughout the U.S. to help support the New Deal Franklin D. Roosevelt set in place. This "New Deal" helped put people to work all over the States.

Travertine and marble were two materials used quite a bit in the capitol building. These materials came from several states including Vermont, Montana, and Missouri. "The exterior is faced with white Danby Vermont marble. The rotunda, the halls, and all of the lobby areas are lined with a warm, delicately polished Rose Travertine from Montana. The floor and staircases of the rotunda utilize large squares of Phoenix Napoleon grey marble from Missouri with borders of Radio Black marble from Vermont" (Oregon State Legislature, a).

The capitol was designed by Francis Keally, from the New York firm of Trowbridge & Livingston, who designed the building to be built of four different types of marble and decorated with Depression Era art. The structure was a copy of Modern Greek architecture, a four-story building and the fourth newest capitol in the United States. The capitol was dedicated on October 1, 1938 and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

"A persistent rumor about an elevation error on the capitol project has never been resolved. Reportedly, a seven-foot measurement was mistaken for seven inches, resulting in the building’s being six feet, five inches below its intended level. (The capitol was built as 400 feet long, 164 feet wide and 166 feet high.) This report of an elevation error was freely circulated in press reports and was subject of editorial comment….Supposedly this error accounts for the sunken well on the State Street side of the capitol (now concealed by legislative wings added in 1975-76)" (Belton, 16).

No evidence of such a mistake is recorded in the State Library archives.

Marble sculptures flank each side of the main entrance. Both sculptures were created out of Vermont marble by Leo Friedlander. One is called "The Covered Wagon", the other is called "Lewis and Clark led by Sacajawea." Located on the back of each sculpture are maps of the Old Oregon Trail and the routes of Lewis and Clark (Oregon State Legislature, a). Ulric Ellerhusen and Tom Morandi created sculptures to adorn the other building entrances.

The large bronze replica of the Oregon State Seal embedded in the floor in the center of the rotunda was also sculpted by Ulric Ellerhusen (Oregon State Legislature, a). On the state seal there is a picture of a "British ship is being chased away by an American steamer, symbolizing the exodus of British control and the dawn of a new era" (Andersen). Above the state seal rises the dome of the rotunda 106 feet above the floor. On its ceiling are 33 stars symbolizing Oregon being the 33^rd state in the Union, and on its circular walls are four large murals. These murals and stars were painted by Frank H. Schwarz and Barry Faulkner. The images in the murals reflect events in Oregon’s history: "Captain Robert Gray at the mouth of the Columbia River in 1792; Lewis and Clark on their way to the Pacific in 1805; the first women to cross the continent by covered wagon, welcomed by Dr. John McLoughlin in 1836; and the first wagon train migration in 1843" (Oregon State Legislature, a). "Eight medallions painted near the top of the walls of the rotunda represent the eight objects in the state seal" (Oregon State Legislature, a). The engraving in the rotunda says:

"In the souls of its citizens will be found the likeness of the state which if they be unjust and tyrannical then will it reflect their vices but if they be lovers of righteousness confident in their liberties so will it be clean in justice bold in freedom" (Oregon Blue Book, d).

There are two staircases leading to the second floor. Above one is embedded the seal of the temporary government of 1843-1848 and it leads to the Senate Chamber. Above the other is embedded the territorial seal of 1848-1859 and it leads to the House of Representatives Chamber. Along side each staircase are murals of scenes portraying Oregon’s industries.

The Senate Chamber seats 30 state Senators and is paneled and furnished with furniture made of black walnut. Wheat and Chinook Salmon images are woven into its carpet depicting Oregon’s agricultural and fishing industries. "The mural behind the Senate President’s desk is by Frank H. Schwarz and shows a street scene in Salem when news of Oregon’s admission to the Union was received in 1859" (Oregon State Legislature, a).

The House of Representatives Chamber seats 60 members and is paneled and furnished with furniture made of golden oak. Its carpet was specially designed with a repeated pattern of Douglas Fir, Oregon’s state tree and symbol of its primary industry, logging. "Behind the desk of the Speaker of the House, is a Barry Faulkner mural showing the historic meeting of Oregon pioneers at Champoeg in 1843, when the provisional government was established" (Oregon State Legislature, a). Above the House and Senate Chambers are inscribed the names of 158 people who played an important part in the development of Oregon.

The Governor’s Suite is also located on the second floor between the two legislative chambers. It is made up of a reception room, public ceremonial office, and private staff offices. Its paneling is of black walnut, and each room contains items of historical interest. The reception area and ceremonial office are used to display art to visitors.

"A Capitol ‘Wings’ project, completed in 1977, at a cost of $12.5 million, added further space for legislative offices, hearing rooms, support services, a first floor galleria, and underground parking" (Oregon State Legislature, a). The addition of hearing rooms allows Oregonians the "opportunity to participate in legislative decision making and to view state government at work" (Oregon State Legislature, a). The galleria contains Oregon historical exhibits, art, and a visitor information center.

The 8.5 ton, 23 foot tall, hollow Oregon Pioneer, designed by Ulric Ellerhusen, stands on top of the capitol building, 140 feet above the ground, and is made of cast bronze and finished in gold leaf. He is a symbol of the spirit of the early settlers in Oregon. Elementary school children from all over Oregon periodically help raise money to coat the Pioneer.

The landscape encompassing the capitol is mostly comprised of ornamental and native trees and shrubs. Within the park are three statues: The Circuit Rider by A. Phimister Proctor, Reverend Jason Lee and Dr. John McLoughlin by Gifford Proctor. The Circuit Rider represents the missionaries who came to Oregon. Reverend Jason Lee was a minister who "played a major role in the American colonization of Oregon. He was also the founder of Oregon’s oldest university; Willamette University located south of the Capitol" (Oregon State Legislature, a). Dr. John McLoughlin was one of the main men who established the Hudson’s Bay Company. He also was the first man to govern the Territory of Oregon.

Willson Park was Salem’s city park from 1853-1965. In 1965, it became part of the capitol grounds. The Waite Fountain, Parade of Animals sculpture, a Liberty Bell replica, and a gazebo are located in this section of the capitol’s park.

"On March 25, 1993, Oregon almost lost its legislative home. Windows rattled. Walls shook. Cracks spidered up to the top of the 105’ dome, then back down again. Ten seconds more, and the golden pioneer statue would have tumbled from atop the building."

"Fortunately damage caused by the earthquake was repairable. In September 1994,…a 9-month renovation to seismically strengthen the main Rotunda [began]. Steel-reinforced shear walls were installed from the ground floor through the main level and up to the base of the dome….great care [was taken] to preserve the Capitol’s historic features, including original 1938 marble veneer panels, ceiling tiles, and woodwork" (Emerick Construction Co.).

The Oregon State Capitol is located in downtown Salem at 900 Court Street NE. "To reach the capitol from I-5 North: take the Market Street NE Exit #256, and proceed west on Market Street for 1.25 miles towards the city center; make a left turn onto Capitol Street NE and go for another .6 mile. Parking is available on-street, in the Capitol Mall parking garage, and in Downtown Salem" (Statesman Journal).

"To reach the capitol from I-5 South: take the Santiam Highway (Hwy. 22/Mission Street SE) Exit #253, and proceed west on Mission Street SE (Hwy. 22) for 1.5 miles and take the 12h Street SE/Hwy. 22 right turn; stay in the right lane (12^th Street SE) for State Capitol Offices for another .5 mile; make a left turn at Court Street NE, and go for two blocks. Parking is available on-street, in the Capitol Mall parking garage, and in Downtown Salem" (Statesman Journal).

Open to the public:

Monday-Friday: 7:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.

Saturday: 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Sunday: 12:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Admission is free. Free two-hour visitor parking. Scheduling tours—503-986-1388

Oregon State song:

"Oregon, My Oregon"

Words by J.A. Buchanan, Music by Henry B. Murtagh

Land of the Empire Builders, Land of the Golden West;

Conquered and held by free men, Fairest and the best.

On-ward and upward ever, Forward and on, and on;

Hail to thee, Land of the Heroes, My Oregon.

Land of the rose and sunshine, Land of the summer’s breeze;

Laden with health and vigor, Fresh from the western seas.

Blest by the blood of martyrs, Land of the setting sun;

Hail to thee, Land of Promise, My Oregon.

State Motto--She Flies with Her Own Wings--adopted 1987

State Animal--American Beaver (Castor canadensis)--adopted 1969

State Bird--Western Meadowlark (Sturnella neglecta)--adopted 1927

State Dance--Square Dance--adopted 1977

State Fish--Chinook Salmon (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha)--adopted 1961

State Flower--Oregon Grape (Berberis aquifolium)--adopted 1899

State Gemstone--Oregon sunstone--adopted 1987

State Insect--Oregon Swallowtail (Papilio oregonius)--adopted 1979

State Nut--Hazelnut (Corylus avellana)--adopted 1989

State Rock--Thunderegg (geode)--adopted 1965

State Tree --Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)--adopted 1939

State Seashell--Oregon hairy triton (Susitriton oregonensis)--adopted 1991

Father of Oregon--Dr. John McLoughlin--bestowed 1957

Mother of Oregon--Tabitha Moffatt Brown--bestowed 1987

Historian Laureate--Thomas Vaughan--bestowed 1989

(all information—State song, State motto etc.—taken from "Oregon State Facts…").

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Fred J. Becker, Architect's E-mail